Unique Furniture Design

Here is a backround on this bedframe design.

 

This story is shorter I promise, this was an easier project.

 

Now everytime you move you throw out stuff, well this was no exception, because I bought a van to move from Ottawa to Victoria so whatever I could fit in that van is what I brought with me hence no mattress or bedframe.

 

The second day in Victoria I bought a new matress and box spring but I didn't have a bedframe (sexy) not really so at work at Thetis Cove Joinery my Boss Jack Bell happen to mention to me that he had to lug some lumber out of a construction site.

He said that if any one of us employee's wanted the lumber we could use it, after a while when no one else seemed interested  I said that I could use some of it to make a bedframe and he said ok use whatever you want.

 

Jack Bell is very generous like that so I started to remove nails rocks and anything else that might be in the wood before I could start machine it.

It took about 5 hours there's alot of lumber here.

After that time I cold see that it turned out to be poplur which is a one of the only non coniferous wood that is soft almost like pine (2X4 and so on ) and it has  a white and green colour hence why I stained it.

 

I decided to go with this design which doesn't have any nails in the assembly no glue, no metal brackets just interlocking pieces of wood like a Japanese temple, the only tool you need to take the bedframe apart is a rubber mallet to remove two dowels that connect the headboard to the rest of the frame, and two more to make the headboard easier when moving but not neccessary.

 

The design only took me about an hour to design it on my drafting table, this was before I used AutoCAD,

Now don't get me wrong I love my Cast iron drafting table that wieghts 300 pounds yes it's very heavy ask Ryen Bell, anyways AutoCAD is more accurate and faster.

 

Now this project only took me about 50 hours to finish and that was of course on my spare time evenings and weekends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the picture above you can see part of the first layer one of three pieces that are notched out almost all the way across except about 6 inches from each ends.

The second layer of beams are notched at the bottom of the beam in order to lock the different pieces together.

You can also see that I notched out for the dovetail to lock the second layer together and you can see more in the picture below with the dovetails going over the first layer and hiding the first layer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You'll notice that there's a notch in the middle of the dovetail in the picture above and that's to accept the third layer.

You'll notice that the entire second layer is flush.( the same height and that I've engraved lettering so you know exactly which piece goes where.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So at this point I added the third layer just to make sure that the second layer is stronger and connected in all direction.

The third layer consistes of beams 2 and 4 and that they are notched to go into the notched dovetail pieces that was in the picture above this picture.

The first layer of the headboard has two sets of holes to accept dowels (wooden cylinder) at the bottom of the picture.

Now the dowel that's situated at the bottom of the picture above, is on of three pieces that are glued in this bedframe I was running out of material so I had no option at this point.

You can also see the notch on the sides of the head board to accept the two vertical beams and they get locked in place with wooden dowels.

Also you can also see the notches on the second layer to accept the forth layer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once I put the third layer I realized that I needed to make notches in the second and third layer to lock in the forth layer and of course notch the forth layer to fit in the second and third layer.

You can also see that on top of the forth layer are notches to lock in the 2X4's which are notched as well.

 

Now if you look at the top picture you'll see long dowels in the headboard, those are not glued in they were pressure fit in those holes and that alone took me four evenings to get them in there.

The first evening I only used my bare hands and I was able to finangle the bottom one in but my palms were bleeding so the other evening I used a rubber mallet and a block of wood to get them in

 They are never getting back out, due to moisture the wood swells and now you can use one dowel to move the entire bed and the dowel doesn't even move a smigen.

 

This was easy design, all I did was basically remove material (notching) so that the different pieces of wood could lock into each other.

I don't usually like easy projects but I have to say that it was nice having a project didn't take that long.

After 7 years of use this bedframe has no wear or tear.

I really like this bedframe but I do preferre the sliegh bed and so does everyone that sees both bedframes.